Remove the E-clip and washer securing the oil- injection cable; then disconnect the oil-injection cable from the oil-injection pump. This will allow the belt to cure totally before it is subjected to hard use. Keep this manual accessible in the shop area for reference. Some photographs and illustrations used in this volume are used for clarity purposes only and are not designed to depict actual conditions. Removing Engine Table of Contents 60 cc Model. Unlike other manuals on the internet my manuals don't need a password to view or print and you can back them up any way you see fit to make sure it's aways there when you need it.
A high spot can be noted by a bright metallic finish. Unlike other manuals on the internet my manuals don't need a password to view or print and you can back them up any way you see fit to make sure it's aways there when you need it. Removing Engine Triple Models 1. Remove the cover and O-ring seal. Replace if damaged or worn.
Place the crankcase on the bench with the water pump side down. If either condition exists, replace the bearing. I'd start from scratch with timing and if all is correct there look over the ring gear real close, any burrs or chipped teeth replace the ring gear. Remove the springs securing the expansion chamber to the exhaust manifold, front end, and resonator. Wiring diagrams are included in this manual. Inspect the crankcase halves for scoring, pitting, scuffing, or any imperfections in the casting. Leave it in the engine compartment.
Account for a key, stub shaft, and alignment washers. Place the assembly on its flat side. The decal also displays pertinent production information about the year. Arctic Cat recommends the following procedure: On carbureted models if the gas in each carburetor float chamber was not drained prior to storage, the carburetor s must be cleaned before starting the engine. Remove the cap screws; then lift the bottom of the crankcase free of the engine.
On the Wide Track, remove the two lock nuts securing the starter motor to the engine mounting bracket; then place the starter motor and end cap off to the side. Remove the balancer shaft from the crankcase. Remove the two Allen-head cap screws securing the stator backing plate to the crankcase. Notice that it has a timing mark located on the side of the drive gear. Each operator should be instructed to drive the snowmobile for several minutes at a low throttle setting to warm the belt up before using wide-open-throttle.
For assembly purposes, number the three heads and cylinders using a marker. Pull the retainer straight back and free of the crankcase. Only Arctic Cat approved gasoline additives should be used. Using light pressure, move each cylinder in a figure eight motion. Route the hose outside the engine compartment and into a container. Remove the expansion chambers and three grafoil gaskets. If the drive clutch will not release, sharply strike the head of the puller.
It should be checked for proper operation before installing see Section 3. Raise the engine up slightly; then loosen the clamp securing the supply hose to the water pump housing and remove the hose from the water pump. Remove the cap screws securing the engine mounting brackets to the front end. Repeat this step until the clutch releases. Install the spark plugs and connect the high tension leads. Make sure all rivets holding the components together are tight.
Disconnect the oil-supply hose and the oil-output hose from the pump and plug the hoses to prevent oil drainage. Remove the four nuts and lock washers securing the exhaust manifold; then remove the exhaust manifold. Use a piston-pin puller only. Lift the top cooling shroud off the engine and slide the exhaust-side cooling shroud off the exhaust-manifold studs. Remove the oil-injection pump driveshaft from the lower crankcase half.